tvojo nisem ni? druga?e predelal kot 20 drugih, tako da webasto te?ko verjamem, ?e webasto zjutraj ogreje vsaj motor in ne kabine, pomeni da deluje tako webasto in tudi pumpica (pomeni da kro?i voda po vsem sistemu).
Takrat sem ti omenil, da sumim loputo v sistemu prezra?evanja - le ta se odpira in zapira ter po potrebi dovaja topel zrak, krmili se pa preko senzorjev, motor?kov itd....tudi senzorja za zunanjo temperaturo. In tega noben instrument ne zazna
Tako da lahko je mehanizem - motor?ek.
Ne poznam tega sistema zadaj - mogo?e kdo kaj ve? ve o tem bolj detaljno.
Inside the glovebox area, you will see the access door for the cabin air filter. Above that is a servo motor that controls the recirc flap. To the left of the filter are two more servo motors; one on top of the other. The upper-left motor controls whether air blows out of the top vents or the floor vents. The lower-left motor controls the hot/cold mix. This was the motor I was very suspicious of, especially since the mechanic who fixed this problem the first time said it was a loose wire on the hot/cold rheostat.
I removed the lower-left servo motor and then moved the flap by hand. To do this, I unplug several connectors that prevent me from getting a torx wrench on the servo motor. (I reconnected them after taking the motor out.) Moving those wires and connectors might be important, because as it turns out, the servo motor looked perfectly fine, and moving the flap by hand made no difference in the problem. (i.e. The air got hotter and colder as I moved the flap, but never colder than 60 degrees.)
While the servo motor was removed, I noticed a thin black wire pair (similar to speaker wire) running to the middle-back of the dash area. I reached back in with my hand and wiggled it a little. It seems to go into the evaporator part of the A/C system, but that piece is fairly buried so I couldn't determine what the wire was for.
Since the cold air was still only 60 degrees at this point when I was holding the hot/cold flap by hand, I reinstalled that servo motor and check the temp again. (Still 60 degrees. *sigh* So much for my original theory.)
Next, I removed the cabin air filter and place my hand into the opening to feel the temperature of the air flow. WARNING - CAUTION - DANGER! The airflow pulls your hand downward into the rotating fan, so please be careful while doing this.
I notice the air flowing through the filter box felt very warm. I turned recirc on and off a few times and saw the flap move, but the air temp didn't feel any different. I hit the auto mode again and then manually turned down the fan speed. (I repeat - "fan speed," not the temp knob.) Up to that point I was letting the computer control fan speed. My hand started feeling cooler! I checked my vent temperature and it was dropping below 60. Finally! After a while, I turned the fan speed up and the vent temp continued to drop. Even after I turned the auto-climate control back on, everything still worked.
One other possibility was that my engine was idling for around 45 minutes during my investigation. It is possible that something started working just because of that.
CONCLUSION:
I'm not sure what finally fixed the problem, but that's everything I did as best I can remember. I really think I bumped a wire or connector that was loose. Or possibly there could be something wrong with the recirc flap. That servo motor always moved during my tests, but perhaps the flap wasn't seating itself correctly and allowing hot air in from the outside when it wasn't suppose too.
?e en opis
There is a valve under the dash that controls the fluid flow from the engine cooling system to the heater core inside the car. When you turn the temp control on the AC unit it opens or closes this valve with a cable running from the control to the valve, if its not hooked on properly this may prevent the heater from getting adequate flow from the motor. I'm not sure which one it is though, there is a cable for the heater's valve, and one for the floor/dash/defrost vent selector too. If I'm not mistaken you can access both by removing the glovebox, one is right behind it, the other is more centered in the dash. I would drop the glovebox and take a look at these cables. They should both move an actuator at the end of the cable when you turn the control knobs, if either one isn't hooked up or hooked up improperly that could be your problem. Hope its as simple as that. Good luck
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Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Sem omenil, da je bil avto pred mesecem in pol na servisu v kraju severno od Ljubljane. Re?e se mu Medvode :). Needles to say more Poleg regeneracije so bile nastavljene tudi ?obe/ventili. Ne vem, ali bi se lahko med tem posegom videlo tudi st/r/anje v ceveh. Nisem (?e) profi na Mazdah in zato (?e) ne grem preverjati kaj in kako je bilo narejeno na vsakem servisnem posegu.
No, kakorkoli. Verjetno bo potrebna ?e ena pot v medvodje, upam, da tokrat zadnja.......letos .
Glede dodatnih pojasnil in koristnih nasvetov pa: keep 'em coming ....
LPM;
mi smo zahodnjaki
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Mogoce sem se jaz cudno izrazil...premalo 2,5 bar? AmpeR tudi tolk polni...sicer pa zadnje ko sem ga mel na servisu so mi napolnili 2,9bar...a sem spustil pol na 2,5bar...po specifikacijah mislim da je 2,1bar...
Lp Primoz
Bi rekel da premalo, jaz mam 6ko 2.6 / 3.0 ?e je servis dal 2.9 pol je ?e nekaj na tem
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Hvala Ale?, v glavnem na? mehanik je reku, da cudno da jo je tako pobralo...in je na obeh straneh, tako da izkljucuje optiko. Reku je naj vprasam na policiji ce so gume ok, da ne bo kake kazni...mal poznanstva imam bom preveril, ce so hin pa bo spet treba ske?irat....
Ale?, naslednjo nedeljo bom verjetno na vasem koncu tako da se oglasim
lp
da mehanik re?e da izklju?uje optiko ker so gume na obeh straneh???
Ali ti nam opisuje? da ima ena guma oba robova v pi*. Jaz sem razbral da ima leva in desna zunanji rob v pi. To je najve?krat ?e so gume kontra v, ?e so pa v V pa notranjega pobira obema predjima
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Po 18.000km so prednje gume pri straneh ze kar hin...zgleda bo treba nove. AmpeR tudi pravi, da so se njegove kar hitro zrabile...a je se kak lastnik CX-5 na forumu, da bi povedal kolk km se naredi z prvimi gumami? Ker 18.000km ni lih veliko....pa se kje bi se dalo dobit take gume najcenej (mislim premium znamke ne neke XY) 225/65/17-com 102V (ali H)...
Lp Primoz
Optika. Prednje gume prevec na notri - narobe obrnjena crka V, ce sta obe enakomerno samo zunaj.
Sem imel na Mazdi 5 in so mi priznali optiko in nove gume
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
preveril (ve?ino) varovalk...vse ok (vmes zgubil eno 10A in se sre? spomnil kje so rezervne - sedaj moram nabavit mal zalogo teh varovalk...kdo rab za group buy?)
zavorna teko?ina je tisto levo od akumulatorja? Tisto je tko 1mm ni?je od MAX (verjetno pelko dolil glede na to da je bil avto ravnokar pri njemu
se pravi je po vsej verjetnosti tale speed senzor
P.S. Sem pa med vo?njo tudi sprobal ?e DSC res ne dela.....no res ne dela (ni te?ko probat na cesti ?ez Smre?je ko je malo mokra)
pol pa je to, ampak lahjko da samo stik, slab kontakt od udarca
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Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
no signal from Vehicle Speed Sensor - in ta baje ne daje nobene error kode ko gre za HW okvaro, vseeno lahko pogledava z in?trumentom. Sedaj pa vpra?anje ali samo la?e zaradi felten, slab kontakt na ?ici ob luknji ali je res zje...
?e prej pa poglej tisto za butalce:
- ?e slu?ajno nima? samo zavorno na minimumu
- varovalke (isti show sem imel pri pregoreni varovalki za ?top lampe, po vo?nji stare prikolice)
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Odkar spremljam, ta forum ?e nisem opazil da bi kdo dobil ta light show.
Torej danes so se mi na ju?ni obvoznici (tam ko je grbina in je avto malo posko?il) pri?lage vse 3 lu?ke hkrati (ABS + DSC Off + podrsavanje koles - na sliki vidno).
Sem malo poguglal in prvo kar mi najde je speed senzor (na de?ju) pri gumah, drugo je nek abs senzor, tretje je pa mo?nost zaradi izravljenih ali nepravilnih gum.
Lahko tole kaj sam stuhtam ali bo najbolje, da se zapeljem k Pelkotu.
V?eraj sem menjal akumulator na Mazdi 6 letnik 2009. Po menjavi mi je zme?alo radijske programe in dnevni ?tevec resetiralo na 0, kar sem pri?akoval. Ostalo dela OK. Problem pa je pri navigaciji oz touchscreenu, ki ne deluje oz napi?e da ne more nalo?iti programa in da moram kontaktirat uradni servis. Ali je ?e kdo imel tak problem in kako ste ga re?ili?
LP Toma?
v settings navigacije mora? povedati kje se nahaja program - program path
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Imam "problem" in sicer danes se peljem na siht malo prtisnem na gas tam okol 190 zaslisim cuden zvok kot pisk vetra ampak kar glasno. mogoce kdo ve kaj bi blo to? hvala :-D
Prepotih radio
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Spletna stran uporablja piškotke z namenom zagotavljanja funkcionalnosti in boljše uporabniške izkušnje spletnega mesta. Z uporabo spletnega mesta soglašate z uporabo piškotkov.
Napisano
Live your dreams, don't dream your life!
Se oproscan za topkaeske napale, ampk bolj ko le teledon pametem in moderin, manjse ma tipkivnico
Povezava za deljenje
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