Pa daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaj Bo?tjan povej bol po kme?k madona, da ?e hribusi zastopmo kj!!!
Kaj je prednost tega poliolikarbonsolata!!?
?e sne?i se pri navadnih ?arometih toi.......................tam pa zdrsi???
Polikarbonat ali oznaka PC, to je plastika ki se uporablja namesto stekla na lu?eh, je bolj odporna na udarce od stekla, la?ja in sneg se ne nenabira gor tako kot na staklenih, ker ni tako hladna kot steklo.
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
Samo kolk ljudje ne verjamemjo da to deluje, eni gledajo kot da je ?katlica ki zna ?arat
Pri temu lahko samo 1 run naredi? pa ti ?e poka?e konje in navor, spotoma pa ?e pomeri od 0-100 km/h + 402 m in ostale zadeve o kateri se nam tud sanja ne.
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
To pomeni da ho?e? iz nje stisnit 25 KM kar je kar veliko, da bi bilo ?e varno in poceni.Prvo lahko menja? kolektorje,pove?a? Fi izpuha z tem bo? pridobil 10-15KM Max. Potem pa poseg v motor kar je ?e malo bolj tvegana zadeva.Malo glavo obdelat kak?ne druge odmi?ne,druge bate....Ra?unaj da ?e bi hotel stisniti toliko konjev iz tvojega motorja pod 1000 eurov ne pri?akuj.Na?alost je ta hobi tako drag
Dream on.
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
Fantje mislte si kar ho?te, kaj je bol? in kaj je cnej? in kaj je bol to?n, js sem probu star G-Tech in zdej bom ?e novga in me ba? zaboli ?e bo 0,1 al pa 0,2 sekunde razlike, kdo pa prav, da vedno ?altam enako hitro ?
Natan?nost je pa taka, kolikor si ti natan?en-to?en pri vna?anju podatkov, toliko je natan?na meritev, tega pri valarjih ni, samo je pa 1 meritev 1/3 g-techa, pol pa sami zra?unajte, ?e se spla?a, 2X peljat na valarje, recimo 1X z originalnim zra?ni filtrom in 1X z zamenjanim("?portnim"), ali pa drugimi kolesi, ali pa drugim izpu?nim sistemom, ...
Toliko v razmislek ....
Tako da jaz ga dobim, ?e bo koga zanimal, bomo pomerl, druga?e bom pa dirka?em rental.
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
aja... Marko neki sem te pozabu upra?at na sre?anju glede tiste diagnoze
?e se spomni? ko si reku da se da to kr z ?arnico sprobat
ka bi si lahka vzel 5 minut cajta pa mi to malo podrobneje opi?e?
midva z mehanikom ravno ne vema kak bi to deloval
LP
UUUUU To je pa ZAJEBAN !
HOW TO.. READ MY V6 ENGINE CONTROL UNIT'S ERROR CODES.
Here is how to build an easy and cheap ECU error code reader for your V6 engine.
Required items: Buy 6 inches (about 16 centimeters) of insulated cable, preferably with a 2.5mm solid core and a non-flashing 12V-LED.
Step 1: Open the hood/bonnet and locate the black oblong diagnostic connector behind the battery with the word "DIAGNOSTIC" written in raised type on the top.
Step 2: Opening the black DIAGNOSTIC connector, inside the lid is a map of the pins contained within. It is possible to scope O2 sensors and various other systems from here but we will be limited to code reading here. Locate the terminals called TEN & GND. WARNING: notice there is a B+ terminal nearby which must not be touched even by strands of wire as it is a 30A feed from the battery.
Step 3: Ensure the ignition is OFF, the parking/hand-brake is applied and the gearbox is in neutral.
Step 4: Take a piece of insulated wire, around 2.5mm and strip off 1 centimeter of insulation from each end and form it into a loop. Solid wire is preferred.
Step 5: Connect this jumper-hoop across the connections labled GND & TEN. Ensure no other connectors are joined and no strands are wandering about if stranded wire is used.
Step 6: Connect the 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the other free end to the FEN terminal. Ensure that nothing else is connected or accidentally connected as B+ is a 30A 12V supply!!
Step 7. Turn the ignition to ON but do not start the car, watch the LED as it flashes out any codes. If it does not flash confirm the connections, if still not flash then you have no codes stored.
Step 8. Codes are flashed out according to the lowest code first, and repeated after a pause of 4 seconds. The format is akin to morse code, in that a short flashes represent 1s and longer flashes 10s. Thus flashes of -- -- - - - - would represent a code of 24 which is common around 60k miles and is the rear O2 sensor. This is the most common cause of CELs.
Step 9. To clear codes, disconnect the negative battery terminal for 2 minutes with a door left open or apply the brakes.
Step 10. Turn the Ignition to OFF before removing the leads and ensure when removing no other connections are touched.
Step 11. If more than one code is present, it can be worth clearing all codes and then checking them again to see which are reoccuring. It is not uncommon for sporadic codes to appear under certain fault conditions, before spending money on any components other than O2 sensor or TPS (code 12) codes should be confirmed.
The error codes:
CODE-DESCRIPTION
02-'NE2' crankshaft position sensor
03-'G' camshaft position sensor
04-'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor
05-Knock sensor
08-Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF)
09-Coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
10-Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
12-Throttle position sensor (TPS)
14-Barometric pressure sensor
15-LHO2S inactivation error
16-Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system
17-LHO2S inversion error
23-RHO2S inactivation error
24-RHO2S inversion error
25-Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid
26-Canister purge solenoid
28-EGR vacuum solenoid
29-EGR vent solenoid
34-Idle air control (IAC) solenoid
41-VRIS #1 solenoid
46-VRIS #2 solenoid
67-LFAN relay (1993 only)
69-ECTF sensor (1993 only)
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
Spletna stran uporablja piškotke z namenom zagotavljanja funkcionalnosti in boljše uporabniške izkušnje spletnega mesta. Z uporabo spletnega mesta soglašate z uporabo piškotkov.
.
Napisano
Kolega švaba mi je zadnjič rekel, ko sva se malo zapeljala z MPS.
"Life is too short, to drive slow-shitty cars."
Povezava za deljenje
Deli na druge strani