YavarYe X6V6

Iz preventive zamenjana turbina pri 290 kkm, avto se je vozil na dolge fure in niso hoteli rizkirat kake okvare, druga?e pa luftmesser NI bil zamenjan nikoli.

Bo? snemal pornjake ?

Vse najbol?e in ne preve? :mi pijemoo: , da nau te?av z .

Jap res je.

Ja itaq.

?e ventilator ne laufa, pol zrak ne kro?i. Je tako ?

Bodi vesel ?e bo samo rjavela, in bo vse ostalo delalo ok. Jaz osebno raje da je malo gnil, kot pa da se ne upam peljat 2 kkm dale?, ker me je strah da kaj odpove.

Pol pa n juri? na ... ?

To je zato, ?e pichko da? na desno stran sprednjega pokrova motorja in jo "?ge?", ti potem ne zjebe optike, ?e pa tega ni pa mora? potem delat opiko. ps. Pa da nebi slu?ajno verjel.

Model izklopi kro?enje zraka v notranjosti in vklopi klimo, pa bo ql. (pa ni treba dajat na hladen zrak, kar na toplo pusti)

Al pa kar linijo za proizvodnjo teh ?tang naredim ?

A ima kako kolegico ?

Proda? ?

Brezskrbi, ti se samo vozi.

Model, bos ti tud kej naredu v tej smeri ?Jaz mam doma se eno stango od xedosa za predelat.

Jaz uporabljam neko kremo, ki jo ima druga?e tudi za mazanje kombinezona za motor. Bom pogledal in ti napisal iz ?esa je, je pa 100% iz samo naravnih sestavin.

Al pa najt dobrega spnzorja.

Al pa da? gor cel komplet 4 gume, pol pa ?ez leto po?ge? sprednje in da? zadaj 2 novi, zadnje pa da? spredaj in ma? spet vse ql in dejansko ima? gor par gum max 2 sezoni, vasko leto pa ubode? 2 novi. Ne vem mogo?e narobe razmi?ljam ampak jaz zadaj zmeraj dam nove gume, spredaj pa tiste ki so bile prej zadaj, zato ker je pomoje bistveno da ima? zada res odli?ne gume, saj ko ti "vzame" zadnji del pol je ve? ali manj konc veselja, ?e pa ti "vzame" sprednji del pa je ?a mo?nost da se zma?e?, ?eprav pa ne vedno. Napisano je za FWD avte. Razmi?ljam in delam prav ??

Sem imel avtek te firme in je dubu s 75 na 128 km, sam niso bli samo kolektorji, odmi?ne, vzmeti ventilov, ventili,bati, ojnice,le?aji, hidravli?na ?rpalka, bencinska ?rpalka, vbrizgovalne ?obe, ecu,... V glavnem ostal samo blok motorja,glava in karter.

Bu?e. Pri mojem Xedosu, je razlike z drugim kolektorjem 20 km, pri 145 konjih, pri 90 konjih lahko s kolektorjem in navam kakim auspuhom in CAI in ne vam kaj ?e, NE bo? dobil niti 5km kaj ?ele 20 km. ?e pa gre? glavo dol vzet in jo zrihtat, zamenjat bate in ECU, pol pa ja.

Mogo?e je preve? "gorak" na lastnika in mu namenoma nagaja.

Jaz bom kar na Dunlop Sport MAXX ostal, sem zelo zadovoljen z njimi, tudi devembra, ko je bilo pod ni?lo so se izkazale zelo dobro. Sicer pa niso bile najbolj đabe, tako da morjo bit ql.

Mi?ljeno je prav samo napisno je butasto.

Kako naj se ti oddol?im ?

UUUUU To je pa ZAJEBAN ! HOW TO.. READ MY V6 ENGINE CONTROL UNIT'S ERROR CODES. Here is how to build an easy and cheap ECU error code reader for your V6 engine. Required items: Buy 6 inches (about 16 centimeters) of insulated cable, preferably with a 2.5mm solid core and a non-flashing 12V-LED. Step 1: Open the hood/bonnet and locate the black oblong diagnostic connector behind the battery with the word "DIAGNOSTIC" written in raised type on the top. Step 2: Opening the black DIAGNOSTIC connector, inside the lid is a map of the pins contained within. It is possible to scope O2 sensors and various other systems from here but we will be limited to code reading here. Locate the terminals called TEN & GND. WARNING: notice there is a B+ terminal nearby which must not be touched even by strands of wire as it is a 30A feed from the battery. Step 3: Ensure the ignition is OFF, the parking/hand-brake is applied and the gearbox is in neutral. Step 4: Take a piece of insulated wire, around 2.5mm and strip off 1 centimeter of insulation from each end and form it into a loop. Solid wire is preferred. Step 5: Connect this jumper-hoop across the connections labled GND & TEN. Ensure no other connectors are joined and no strands are wandering about if stranded wire is used. Step 6: Connect the 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the other free end to the FEN terminal. Ensure that nothing else is connected or accidentally connected as B+ is a 30A 12V supply!! Step 7. Turn the ignition to ON but do not start the car, watch the LED as it flashes out any codes. If it does not flash confirm the connections, if still not flash then you have no codes stored. Step 8. Codes are flashed out according to the lowest code first, and repeated after a pause of 4 seconds. The format is akin to morse code, in that a short flashes represent 1s and longer flashes 10s. Thus flashes of -- -- - - - - would represent a code of 24 which is common around 60k miles and is the rear O2 sensor. This is the most common cause of CELs. Step 9. To clear codes, disconnect the negative battery terminal for 2 minutes with a door left open or apply the brakes. Step 10. Turn the Ignition to OFF before removing the leads and ensure when removing no other connections are touched. Step 11. If more than one code is present, it can be worth clearing all codes and then checking them again to see which are reoccuring. It is not uncommon for sporadic codes to appear under certain fault conditions, before spending money on any components other than O2 sensor or TPS (code 12) codes should be confirmed. The error codes: CODE-DESCRIPTION 02-'NE2' crankshaft position sensor 03-'G' camshaft position sensor 04-'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor 05-Knock sensor 08-Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) 09-Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) 10-Intake air temperature sensor (IAT) 12-Throttle position sensor (TPS) 14-Barometric pressure sensor 15-LHO2S inactivation error 16-Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system 17-LHO2S inversion error 23-RHO2S inactivation error 24-RHO2S inversion error 25-Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid 26-Canister purge solenoid 28-EGR vacuum solenoid 29-EGR vent solenoid 34-Idle air control (IAC) solenoid 41-VRIS #1 solenoid 46-VRIS #2 solenoid 67-LFAN relay (1993 only) 69-ECTF sensor (1993 only)